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Personalised science-led skincare is a modern innovation, but putting our best face forward is something we&#;ve been doing historically since BC. Granted, we&#;re not talking K-beauty ten-step routine trends or a skinimalist hyaluronic acid-infused moisturiser. Back in the day, we&#;ve seen people (mostly women) &#;make do and mend&#; with beauty-boosting ingredients that were essentially whatever they could get their hands on.
Cleopatra maintained her legendary beauty by bathing in donkey milk. Elizabeth I doused her face with lead-white powder to strengthen her image of severity and power in a male-dominated world &#; she even sparked an ill-advised trend while doing it. Post-WW2, women out-smarted the shortage of nylon stockings by improvising with eyeliner and instant gravy. Let&#;s hope they smoothed out the lumps first.
Thankfully today, the &#;Bisto as fake tan&#; trend is history. We&#;ve got elegantly formulated scientifically proven skincare to do everything from brightening our skin to our mood. Setting your personal skin goals &#; and achieving them &#; is as accessible as taking an online consultation and committing to a simple daily routine.
But just for fun, we&#;ve whizzed back through time to explore the ways we&#;ve strived to care for our skin and conform to beauty trends of past eras. And while our list isn&#;t comprehensive, you&#;re sure to enjoy the journey &#; and be as excited as us &#; about what the future holds for cutting-edge innovations in skincare.
Liquid gold &#; olive oil. This culinary favourite was a popular skincare hack for the ancient Greeks, who (like us today) aspired to a healthy glow. Wise women combined it with sea salt for a DIY scrub (for a homemade skincare hack stood the test of time).
Honey, milk and yoghurt were widely used to treat signs of ageing. Honey&#;s antibacterial properties were a popular acne treatment, while the probiotics in yoghurt made a top-notch moisturiser. We&#;ll stick to glycerin for now though.
The ancient Egyptians had their own skincare tricks, using sour milk and patchouli to treat acne &#; regulating oil production and fortifying the skin (endorsed by King Tut himself). Queen Cleopatra&#;s famed donkey milk baths tap into the same concept. Soured milk produces AHA lactic acid, creating an exfoliating, surface-peeling soak, paving the way for smoother and blemish-free skin. Genius.
Soured milk baths produce AHA lactic acid, creating an exfoliating, surface-peeling soak, paving the way for smoother and blemish-free skin.
The Egyptians also pioneered the use of white-lead face cream (also known as ceruse), to clear spots, improve texture and skin tone, setting a trend &#; for an aesthetic, not the toxic ingredient &#; that would continue throughout history.
We know the Romans enjoyed a good soak, as bathhouses popped up across their empire. Acne issues? They added sulphur to hot water baths, easing inflammation and killing bacteria &#; could it give azelaic acid a run for its money?
Over to the Middle Ages, 12th-century women used plant-based sources like aloe vera, rosemary and cucumber to cleanse their skin &#; much-loved ingredients that wouldn&#;t raise an eyelid today. They also made balms using animal fat, toners with vinegar and face masks with seeds, leaves and flowers.
According to the 14th-century French poem Roman de la Rose, they were also fans of pimple-popping, &#;If her hands are not fair and unblemished but marred by spots and pimples, she ought not to leave these alone but use a needle to remove them.&#; Not sure the dermatologists were so well-informed back then.
Women presented themselves to the world in different ways throughout history. As hunter-gatherers, they used rudimentary cosmetics. Upper-class women crushed-up beetles to get rouge pigments that could stain lips and cheeks. Indigenous people relied on age-old wisdom and herbal remedies for healing wounds and illnesses.
As we&#;ve already mentioned, using lead and mercury-based creams and cosmetics to maintain pale skin was a deadly error. Zero cosmetic regulation and whimsical trends to stay pale (and thus look like you spent less time out of the house working) meant that women unknowingly resorted to dangerous means to reflect the beauty conventions of the day.
Zero cosmetic regulation and whimsical trends to stay pale meant that women unknowingly resorted to dangerous means to reflect the beauty conventions of the day.
Alongside the artistic feats of the Renaissance period, science and medicine were still very much in their infancy. The first scientific body of work dedicated to dermatology, De morbis cutaneous (&#;On the diseases of the skin&#;) was published in , by Italian physician Geronimo Mercuriali.
Despite this advancement in knowledge about dermatology, toxic substances such as ceruse, mercury and lead sulphate remained popular for treating acne and pigmentation. Today, we rely on equally powerful but much safer treatments to meet our goals and sustain healthy skin, such as hydroquinone and the retinoids, tretinoin (thank you science!)
Technological advancements in the 18th and 19th centuries mirrored simultaneous social, economic and scientific advancements and innovations. Personal products (from hygiene to skincare and cosmetics) became more affordable and accessible. Upper-class women continued using skin lighteners, including zinc oxide, while more readily available resources like egg yolks, rosewater, lemon juice and honey were still popular DIY skin treatments.
Increased commercialisation in the latter half of the 19th century, boosted demand for &#;face-painting&#; products and off-the-shelf skincare. Rimmel, Guerlain and Ponds (of cold cream fame) were all founded during this period, and stole our skincare hearts in the early days of mass advertising on billboards, magazines and newspapers.
Victorian doctors offered advice on maintaining natural and fresh beauty, but their advice was mostly directed at younger women to prevent ageing and offered little support to women looking to age well. Victorian dermatologist, Andrew Cooley suggested that skincare should aim to repair and renew the skin, comparing it to the regenerative nature of flowers. Today, we have the treatments and knowledge to maintain a healthy lifestyle holistically and build the confidence to stay in bloom as our best selves.
The idea of skin renewal and replenishment wasn&#;t misguided though &#; modern dermatology advocates the use of ingredients that increase skin cell turnover. The 19th century also saw the introduction of chemical peels. Ferdinand Ritter von Hebra, an Austrian dermatologist, treated freckles, scarring and skin texture with phenol, croton oil and small amounts of nitric acid.
The 20th-century completely redefined skincare and beauty, and brought with it unprecedented demand for new cosmetics and debate over the role they played in women&#;s image and society.
The invention of sunscreen in the s marked a protective turning point in skincare. Both scientists and consumers understood more about the sun and the effect it had on the skin. Retinoic acid (later known as isotretinoin) was first studied in the s, and used as an acne treatment successfully trialled well into the s and 80s.
At the turn of the century, Madam C. J. Walker pioneered skincare, haircare and cosmetics for African-American women, refusing to create, carry or sell products that bleached or lightened the skin. She also taught other young black women how to start and operate businesses.
In the latter half of the 20th-century, many women began to reject traditional notions of femininity, including makeup and skincare as part of the growing economic and social freedoms women had fought for. By contrast, more economic and social freedoms meant more women had their own disposable income.
This in turn, saw makeup and skincare sales skyrocket after the Second World War. Industry icons Elizabeth Arden, Estee Lauder and Helena Rubinstein all successfully built, developed and marketed lipsticks, face powders, mascaras and eyeliners to women across the western world.
The s, 70s and 80s saw an increased desire from consumers to look sunkissed, a far cry from the pale skin that had dominated the previous millennium. Bronzing lotions, fake tans and skin-damaging sunbed use grew in popularity during this time, as did sunscreens with SPF (sun protection factor).
Thankfully today, beauty and skincare trends are no longer dominated by a single narrative. You can follow a beauty or skincare tribe or be inspired by trends on social media (think TikTok or Instagram) or join in a fun, supportive conversation with other skincare enthusiasts online (join Skin + Me&#;s Facebook group, The Collective).
Smart women (and men!) want products that enhance, protect and make them feel good. No one-size-fits-all solution is going to deliver every person&#;s skin goal and that&#;s why innovations in personalised skincare are at the forefront of modern trends in the cosmetics industry.
It&#;s not magic, it&#;s science. And we&#;re here for it.
Now, self-care and loving who you are seems to be the main aim for most. Many people are searching for products that will give them smooth and youthful appearance, without causing damage to their skin or the environment.
Later, a tanned look began to be coveted, and bronzer and tanning ingredients were added to a lot of mainstream products.
Throughout most of history, the goal was to have pale and blemish free skin. Pale skin showed that the owner hadn't been working outdoors like the servants and poor people.
Many of the same ingredients have been used for health and beauty purposes all around the world (though there are some wild cards like, crocodile poo!) and many of those things are still being used today!
All these items are still used in Skin Care today. It seems the Ancient Egyptians really had it sussed!
Cleopatra herself had a skincare routine. She was an incredibly intelligent woman, and very beautiful according to the Romans! She famously bathed in milk and honey to keep her skin hydrated and blemish free. She used saffron to help balance her hormones and to improve her complexion. It's reported she used rose oil and orange oil on her skin too - two of our favourite oils here at Wild Human Skincare!
Frankincense was considered a precious item (remember, it was given to Jesus in the bible?) and many believed it could stop acne; as a natural antibacterial it actually did work and people began to also use it for healing cuts.
Soap pastes were made from Clay and Olive Oil and used to cleanse the skin. Dead Sea salt was used to exfoliate. Watermelon was added to rose water and sugar. This too was thought to stop ageing and prevent wrinkles.
The aim was to protect the skin from the sun, sand and insects and to keep it looking youthful and fresh.
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Some people went to extremes to get the perfect pale look, even making a powder with lead, chalk and crocodile poo to make their skin appear pale and to protect it from the sun. Sometimes the pursuit of beauty lead to death (lead, we're looking at you).
Face masks were also made from berries and yoghurt. A mixture of cornstarch and eggs was thought to tighten the skin and give a youthful look.
Olives were also considered very important and the oil was used for all kinds of things; Honey and olive oil masks were thought to prevent wrinkles and keep the skin smooth and pale.
Pomegranate was considered a fruit of fertility and prosperity, so it was used a lot, even in skincare. It's fantastic for mature skin but it's unlikely that would have been known then - it was just known to be great for skin!
Persephone ate pomegranate seeds in the underworld and so had to remain there for part of the year. They are also tied to Aphrodite the goddess of love and beauty.
Chemical cosmetics were first introduced when Britain ruled, and the quick and immediate results made people prefer them over the herbal products and practices they had used before. However, the products contained chemicals like lead and mercury, which are highly carcinogenic and it soon became apparent that the products were dangerous.
Ubtans were made from chickpea flour to cleanse, turmeric to add colour, rose water or milk to tone and exfoliate, and then individual herbs were added based on the skin&#;s requirements.
Cold creams made from rose oil, water and melted beeswax were also used to keep the skin looking fresh and blemish free.
Saffron has been used in skin care for a long time in India, said to help with hormones and stops ageing, it also protects from the sun.
As early as bc clarified butter and oils were used to make skin beautiful and to remove hair.
Flowers were often used for their colour and scent and added to oils and creams.
Empresses and other nobles would use a cleanser made from seaweed and jellyfish which was believed to keep the skin youthful.
Many Chinese woman would shave off their eyebrows and used a paste made from mushrooms, lead and rice to lighten their complexion. They would then draw the eyebrows back on using kohl.
The ancient Chinese used pearl powder to hydrate the skin and reduce melanin. It also had a shiny quality that minimised imperfections.
Pan was the name given to the water used to wash rice. Woman would use this water to cleanse their skin. The starch, proteins and vitamins were thought to be very beneficial. In fact this is still an incredibly popular ingredient today in Asian skincare.
The Vikings are often depicted as unkempt savages, but they actually cared a lot about health and hygiene. Regular bathing and grooming was seen as very important.
One of the most bizarre things we found was using the the blood of a hare to banish freckles. Whether it worked or not, we don't know, but we won't be trying it&#;
&#;Pulverize ginger with twice as much galingale and a half portion of zedoary. Place in a tied cloth in vinegar and then in wine so it doesn't become too dark. Smear the skin where eruptions are, and he will be cured.&#; - Hildegard von Bingham
Gemstones were also popularly used for skincare, mostly amethyst. They would lick it and rub it over spots and blemishes to heal them.
Wine was mixed with rosemary to make the skin beautiful, or mixed with tarragon to clear freckles and keep the skin from looking sunburned.
Some of their skincare was fairly standard and may even have worked well, things like:
The medieval times brought some very strange practices&#; Things like washing clothes in urine, using dried dog poo to cure lung diseases and wearing the testicles of a weasel as a necklace during menstruation as a form of birth control. The last one was deemed highly effective!
Uncooked egg whites were applied to the skin as a &#;glaze&#; to create a smooth coating which would hide wrinkles, and lemon juice or rosewater was used to stop blemishes and spots.
It wasn't all dangerous ingredients being used though. Skin softening products in use at the time were created using sesame seed oil, beeswax, and honey, and some woman would wear masks, made of leather, to prevent the sun from reaching their skin.
Another extreme way noblewomen would use to keep a pale complexion was bloodletting, the loss of blood gave them a pale look.
Of course, being Queen meant that many in her court followed suit. They would leave the thick layers of lead on their skin for a week before washing it off and reapplying. The skin beneath the white cover would become grey and wrinkled, making the woman apply thicker coatings to hide it.
Queen Elizabeth had bad pox scars on her face and became obsessed with covering and reducing them. She used white lead to make her skin pale and mercury was used in her skin cleansers.
New commercial products were starting to become available to the more wealthy people in this era. Vaseline was created from petroleum, and women loved it. They would add fresh petals to make a rouge or lipgloss. Scented starch (talcum powder) was sold. Pears soap and Yardley's were both in production. Thayer&#;s Witch Hazel was launched and Ponds Cold Cream was hugely popular.
Home remedies continued to be used, of course. A mixture of oats, egg yolks and honey were used to soften the skin, and lemon juice naturally bleached the skin. Rosewater was used for scent and to freshen the skin. Zinc oxide was used to lighten the skin. It's still used today in natural products like deodorant and sun creams.
It was during this time that the face of skincare and cosmetics really began to change. The cosmetics industry was born.
... now we come to the end of our journey, and skincare is changing faster than ever and doesn't show any sign of slowing. The cosmetics industry is now worth a whopping $136.4 billion dollars.
There is so much choice.
At one point chemical laden and synthetic products led the way in the skincare industry, with people searching for scientific ways to stop aging and make their skin beautiful.
Right now, there is more focus on more natural skincare, self-care and loving who you are. This attitude grew massively during the pandemic as self-care became a thing many people - some of whom were too busy to practice before - began to really explore.
Gentle and natural skincare products has grown massively in popularity with more choices becoming available in stores, though many companies claim to be natural and aren't, and greenwashing is rife. Greenwashing is the practice of companies using false information and false eco credentials to sell products. People have begun to see that many companies are focused on making money, rather than really ensuring the ingredients used are safe. Whilst all cosmetics legally need to have Cosmetic Product Safety Reports, some DIY sellers don't bother, and the big companies don't always care what ingredients are used.
Triclosan was banned in due to evidence that it was a endocrine disrupter. Triclosan was found in a lot of common products from companies like Clearasil, Colgate and Arm and Hammer.
Other ingredients thought to be harmful are...
Some of these ingredients can be linked to health issues like infertility and illnesses. It&#;s a huge topic in itself. The world is becoming more toxic and we&#;re all exposed to them in daily life through the environment. Even our clothing, food and tap water aren&#;t always free from toxins. It is important to be aware of these daily toxins and the impact they can have on us. Choosing good quality skincare that is natural and toxin free is one way we can reduce our overall toxin levels.
It can be difficult to know what's what in skincare, and many companies aren't always open on their packaging. Always check the ingredients of the products you wish to use, and ask the company any questions you have. With around 60% of what we put on our skin being absorbed (and higher in sensitive skin areas), it's important to know what we're putting on our skin. Our skin is our largest organ and it's important we take care of it safely.
We hope you enjoy enjoyed our whistle stop tour of skincare through the ages. We found it absolutely fascinating to have a look at what people used in the pursuit of skincare, and what is still being used today. Which era was your favourite to read about? Did anything surprise you?
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